The first beach (with the friendly hosts): Day 21 – 24

A dragonfly we found on the beach.

Following our noses on the N2 most of the way (and passing through about 5 tollgates!), we watched the landscape change from the sparse, dry vegetation of the winter mountains as we passed Pietermaritzberg, Durban and Richards Bay to the tropical and pleasantly humid coastal village of Sodwana.

We headed for the beach, trying to find the closest possible place to stay on the coast so that we could hear the waves. Passing a hippo crossing sign on the way, and countless boards advertising backpackers, B&B’s, lodges and campsites (even though our GPS only mentioned four places – Sodwana clearly an under-explored gem) until we stumbled upon a beach treasure and holiday-makers heaven, AND (luckily) in off-season.

Sodwana Bay.

Inkwazi Beach Camp is definitely one of our favourite and most delightful discoveries on The Journey so far. Marius and Mariette treated us with the utmost hospitality and welcomed us as family, spoiling us on the first night with some of their delicious home-made sushi, and upgrading us to the cabins for the price of camping. We all fell in love with the place – the relaxed wooden beach-style architecture, the sand beneath your feet in the kitchen and dining area, the less-is-more approach and the hosts! We landed up staying for 3 nights. 

Jazz walking along the rock pools at Sodwana.

We visited the 4^th of the World Heritage Sites we’ve seen so far – The Sodwana Bay Marine Park. Paying R25/pp for beach access in the 4x4 (ploughing through the dunes to get to the beach, much to the boys’ delight), we spent the day soaking up the sun and swimming in the warm water, fishing and rejuvenating our inner ‘beach-baby’, and in winter! Next stop …country number 3 – the Kingdom of Swaziland.